Temples

25th February

I woke early and had it in my mind to get up early and visit some of Bangkok's temples before it got too crowded.

Somehow I managed to faff around so that by the time I reached my first port of call - The Grand Palace - it was already 10 am.

Not only did I get there at peak tourist time but I chose the day that they were having a Royal Ceremony of 'Lying - In - State' for Queen Sirikit, the Queen Mother of Thailand, who passed away on the 24th October, 2025 at age 93.

It seems a long time to hold on to a body, but apparently, Buddhist funerals often involve long, multistage, or delayed cremation/burial rituals, frequently spanning 49 to 100 days after death. This is believed to be the transitional period for the soul to be reborn. 

There were many people, dressed in black, who were visiting the palace to view the body and pay their respects.

The Grand Palace consists of a large complex of temples and Royal buildings. 

It is free for Thai people - foreigners pay 500 Baht, which isn't bad, as there is a lot to see and this includes entry to the museum as well.

The temples are decorated exquisitely and it is lovely just to amble around and marvel at the beauty and work that has gone into them. The first temple I looked at was the one housing 'The Emerald Buddah', some pictures of the outside:

Inside is a wonderfully decorated shrine and on top, is sitting, a green Buddha statue, about 66 x 48 cm, clothed in gold. You are not allowed to take pictures inside this temple, but I sat for ages admiring the place. You also mustn't show, or point, the souls of your feet to the Buddha. There were marble statues, gold and silver trees, and many beautifully carved ornaments as well as detailed paintings and ceiling - not unlike the temple in Krabi - just a bit more ornate.

I heard a tour guide telling a man that the Buddha was an emerald (never trust a tour guide!). I guessed that it is carved from Jade, but other internet sources say it could be Jasper.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emerald_Buddha

It is considered one of Thailand's most important antiquities, The King,  himself, changes the Buddha's robes three times a year.

It was discovered or found in 1434 - there are many legends and stories surrounding this, which you can read from the link above, and also see pictures of him.

I managed to take a sneaky picture from the exit door of the temple, which wasn't manned by any security guards

Around the temple complex the walls are covered in detailed paintings, depicting scenes and stories. 

Info:

The paintings at the Grand Palace in Bangkok, specifically the 178 mural panels in the Wat Phra Kaew gallery, primarily depict the Ramakien, the Thai epic adaptation of the Indian Ramayana. These murals, commissioned by King Rama I in 1783, illustrate the battle between good and evil, featuring Prince Rama, his monkey army, and the demon king Tosakanth. 

Key Details of the Murals:

• The Story: The paintings tell the full Ramakien story, focusing on Rama's quest to rescue his wife, Sita, from the demon king.
• Characters & Scenes: The murals feature detailed scenes of the monkey army (Vanar Sena), chariots in battle, and the golden court of Ravana.
• Artistic Style: The paintings are in the traditional Thai, two-dimensional style, often featuring red color schemes.
• Hidden Details: Amidst the epic battles, the murals contain small, "playful" scenes showing daily life and, according to local lore, even a couple sneaking away from the battle.
• Location: While most known for the Ramakien murals in the gallery, other, separate paintings in the complex, such as those in the Phra Thinang Phutthaisawan, depict the life of the Buddha. 

These fascinate me - the sheer detail of them - I took way too many photos! Here is a selection:

More temples and statues:

I had been watching a pigeon drinking from the water lilly pot, and this little boy was also transfixed, watching it. I just missed him looking - here he turned to call to his Mum.

Dark clouds were gathering & it started pouring down with rain, so everyone sheltered under the covered temples & walkways where the paintings were.

It was quite good actually, as I had more time to look at the paintings but also to people watch. It amused me how the kids all wanted to catch the raindrops in their hands, and  this little girl catching the rain in her hat.

And the little boy in this video

The rain got heavier & lasted a while, but, as with so many occasions, whilst travelling, I felt happy, just waiting. I had nowhere else I had to be, and nothing better to do. In some way this feels like true contentment.

Once the rain stopped, everyone seemed to leave at once.

The next thing to see was the palace itself & there were many people going to pay their respects - I suppose, like when Queen Elizabeth II died, & people went to London. - Only Thai people dressed in Black were allowed in.

The museum had information about the history of Thailand through the ages & how it coincided with other historic events - dated with the Chinese calander as well as our own.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Thailand

The Kingdom of Ayutthaya, the ruins of which you can visit - North of Bangkok - is the pre-curser to modern Thailand.

The historic City of Ayutthaya, founded c. 1350, became the second Siamese capital after Sukhothai. It was destroyed by the Burmese in the 18th century. Its remains, characterized by the prang (reliquary towers) and gigantic monasteries, give an idea of its past splendour.

Thai people originated from Tai-speaking tribes in southern China (specifically Yunnan province), migrating south over many centuries due to population pressure and the desire for better land.

These groups settled in Southeast Asia between the 10th & 13th centuries, mixing with indigenous Mon & Khmer populations to establish kingdoms like Sukhothai & Ayutthaya. 

Siam - now Thailand - has managed to resist colonisation from Europe unlike other countries in Southeast Asia. 

I left the museum to go & visit Wat Arun - another famous temple complex - I read that this used to be on the site of the Grand Palace, but was moved over to the otherside of the river, and once housed the Emerald Buddah. 

I took the ferry over & took many more photos of Wat Arun. It was all decorated with pottery & little tiles

More pots, statues & shrines

Temple cat

There were many people, from different countries, paying to dress up in Thai costumes & have their photo taken around the temples. I must admit, I don't really get why people want to do this. To me it would just be embarrassing.......but it was very popular 

I returned to the hostel and later went out for some food with Mon. We went to a Thai place that does Indian food - the waitress is also from Bhutan. 

I had Sag paneer with Roti & a lassi.

Its nice to have a friend again. We went back to the Himalayan Coffee house for a Masala tea.

Then I had an early night. I have to be up early for a trip in the morning. 

I'll leave you with an 'enlightening' story from Buddha:

There was a Brahmin who dismissed the Buddha's teachings as he had faith in different practice. 

When his seven sons and daughters-in-law converted to Buddhism and practiced meditation, he became very mad and believed the Buddha was the reason why they changed from the old belief.

The Brahmin stormed into the temple where the Buddha was staying at that time and lashed out at him, calling him offensive

names. The Buddha, however, remained peaceful and happy, unruffled by his insults. 

When he saw the Brahmin began to get

tired, the Buddha asked him a question.

"Brahmin, what's your purpose of the visit?"

The Brahmin repeated his cursing at the Buddha until he was tired again.

"Well, Brahmin, let me ask you a question. Have you ever had a visitor at your house?" the Buddha asked.

"Yes, but what's your business?" was his reply.

The Buddha continued, "Have your guests brought you snacks, foods, or gifts?"

"Yes, certainly."

"But if you don't want those gifts, who will have them?"

"Obviously, the person who brought them."

The Venerable One said, "Now then, you're my guest and you're bringing me the gift of anger. I won't take it.

Therefore those rude words belong to you."

The Brahmin was intrigued at the Buddha's words and wisdom. "Buddha, where have you learned to not accept the gift of anger?"

With compassion, the Perfected One began teaching him about Dhamma. The Brahmin then accepted the Buddha as his teacher & eventually became a Buddhist.