Night Bus to Cao Bằng

23rd March

The day was spent, reading and relaxing and killing time before my night bus later. I went into Sa Pa town, walked around and got some dinner then sat waiting at the office for the bus.

There were three other English girls also waiting for the same bus - at 9.30pm to Cao Bang - so I was slightly reassured, although one of them was getting messages from the tour operator asking questions about the other passengers, and details which he should have been there to collect himself.

The bus came and it was reasonably comfortable, although no toilet on board, and I eventually got off to sleep.

However, at 4 am we were woken up and told we had to leave the bus. We waited in this strange workshop, along with a cage of chickens, and a box with holes in that had something jumping around inside, which was a little un-nerving.

Eventually, we were all squeezed into a minibus, and told we weren't leaving until 6 am.

I have sort of learned to relax and laugh at these situations, but the girls were becoming a little agitated at this point.......as long as I can find a toilet I am reasonably happy!

The bus ride was long and bumpy. 

They have a system of beeps from the buses, cars and bikes to warn if their approaching, over taking or generally driving. They are basically constantly beeping their horns.

Also, the locals on the bus talk & shout extremely loud at each other & on their phones. One guy on the bus was shouting at the top of his voice down the phone, then the bus stopped so that he could take delivery of the sandwich (Banh mi) he'd obviously been ordering.  It was really funny. 

They answer the phone with a loud "Halo!"

They also like loud music and the taxi drivers always have music or videos on in the car.

Generally, the Vietnamese people are friendly & do try to help if they can and if they can't they just laugh. ........I wonder what they make of us strange tourists.

They are very willing to use 'Google translate' which is an absolute saviour.

What struck me, on the way up to the North, travelling through the forests, for around a 30 minute stretch there were pile after pile of logs and sawmill after sawmill. Planks of wood drying outside stretched out across the fields & roadside. 

Its scary to think to what extent these beautiful forests are being depleted. It alarmed me to think, that perhaps my travel is contributing to this. Perhaps its to build more property for tourism or toilet paper for us tourists.

There certainly seems to be a hell of a lot of logging going on. The north of Vietnam is particularly green and beautiful with extensive forests & lush mountains. It did cross my mind that perhaps in the future, there will be very little of the forest left to enjoy.

We arrived at lunch time, but not at the place stated on the ticket. At this point I resolved never again to book my buses through 1, 2 Go Asia. The ticket clearly said all connections guaranteed. 

We were swarmed by taxi drivers - I bet they have a scam going with the bus companies - and, of course, Grab wasn't working here.

It was fortunate for me that I was able to team up with the 3 English girls to get a taxi together and with the aid of Google translate again, we established a price of 120k "tóng kông" or 'in total'.... we weren't 100% this price would be honoured but we didn't have much choice at this point.

Luckily - It was OK - and my homestay was only 5 minutes walk from there's.

They said when they were in Sa Pa a guide took them on a hike & they were joined by a team of ladies selling purses etc. (Sounds familiar)......in the end they felt obliged to buy something from them. They were sure the ladies were friends with the guide. 

Probably the guides turn a blind eye to this as, I suppose these people need to make their money somehow. 

It always makes me feel a little guilty when I see the people working so hard in the fields. It must be 'back beaking' work. Its no wonder many take the opportunity to sell stuff to tourists & work as guides etc.

I dropped my bag & went out for coffee and a Banh Mi. After checking in later I walked around town which was surprisingly un-touisty.

There was a large park near the homestay where kids and people were playing games & exercising around a track.

At the homestay I finally met Lan, the lady running the place. I had been messaging her about booking a Cao Bang Loop tour for 2 days & the night bus after, to Ninh Binh. 

She was really great. After the eventful night bus I was pretty tired & went to bed early.

View from my dorm

It was empty when I arrived but later I was woken up by the rest of the people who had checked in late.