Slow Boat into Laos

8th March

I knew I wanted to do this from reading up about it and chatting to a girl in Bangkok who had done it in the other direction.

Incidentally, I have been using AI (ChatGPT) to plan my route through Thailand and Laos. It was there the suggestion for the slow boat came up. Its a really nice way to get across the border from Thailand to Laos & then cruise along the Mekong river to Luang Prabang - a popular spot in Laos on the tourist trail

I found a good blog about it on the internet with all the information on how to navigate it by yourself.

I took this info from it (the words not the picture - That I took in Pakbeng (the half way stop) in the morning):

For centuries, the only way to traverse the jungles of Laos was by elephant or some herculean hiking skills. The other option was to take a boat up or down the river. Not long ago, a few basic dirt roads were constructed. Then in the 1960's, a bare bones highway system was built in Laos by the Chinese. These roads were treacherous and in some cases only available to the military.

Thus, to this day, the Mekong River has been the primary method of travelling through Laos by locals and foreigners alike. And not just Laos. The Mekong River actually starts as the Lancang River in the heart of China. It creates the border between Laos and Myanmar, and then separates Thailand and Laos before it turns deeper into Laos. Most of the major cities in Laos, including the former and current capitals (Luang Prabang and Vientiane), are on the river. It continues south into Cambodia, runs through the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh, and finally reaches the sea in Vietnam. The massive Mekong Delta is the second largest delta in the world, just to the south of Ho Chi Minh City (also known as Saigon).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mekong_Delta

I guess this is what they mean when you hear about taking a slow boat to China.

There was an update to the blog in 2024 saying things had changed now, and the guide was no longer valid. The easier and cheaper way was to go with the help of a tour guide - which I had been avoiding - but it made sense in this case and the company it recommended had an office just at the end of my street in Chiang Rai.

Day 1

I had to be up at 5 am where a minibus picked me up and then others until it was full and we headed to the border (a two hour drive). There, we were shown where to go, told what documents we needed re - Visa etc (I'd done my visa online) - what we needed to pay and then - with the right stamps on our passports we were driven over the friendship bridge into Laos. 

(at this point I hadn't even noticed they drive on the right here!)

There was an office where you could buy a local SIM & change money. I had been using my O2 contract until now but it doesn't cover Laos or Vietnam.

Then onto the slow boat - a huge wooden 'flat' boat with car/minibus seats, which weren't fixed to the floor. It was great! I had a seat in the middle. The engine is at the back, and two toilets and a small counter selling drinks and snacks (including beer) - 'beerlao'

I was sat next to a German lady called Mary who was really nice. We chatted a lot. It was nice just looking out the window at the scenery and seeing the people and children along the river bank going about their daily lives. There were a lot of very young English and other European backpackers on the boat who were playing cards etc. and one lot seemed to have formed a big social group - but they weren't annoying.

We made stops to deliver goods to villagers along the river. It was fascinating to see that these people live here along the river in tiny villages in the hills and I wonder if they have any road links or whether the river is the only way they can get supplies or go to other places.

At one stop some ladies got on selling snacks and drinks

We reached Pakbeng - the stop for the first night - at around 5 pm. There were free Tuk Tuks for some of the hostels - mine included - but not everyone had booked and it was a bit chaotic as everyone just piled into the rooms. There were no beds left in the first two rooms but then the guy showed me to another room with three other girls so I was happy. We then checked in and ordered breakfast and a sandwich for the next day.

It was a pretty nice view from the hostel. I couldn't be bothered to go into the town so I had food there and an early night. The girls in my room went out but they said the town was quiet and only had one bar.

Day 2

I slept really well - for me - and after breakfast took a slow walk to the boat, fairly early.

The town did look quite rural but they had lots of places catering for tourists, like bakeries etc. Not surprising as a known stop on the slow boat route.

I was glad I did go early as people had saved seats and I got sat with the young English crowd. There were two girls and a lad from Liverpool who I got chatting to quite a bit - swapping life stories - and they were really nice actually. I felt much more relaxed on the second day. I caught up with Mary too and a Canadian girl - Piper - who was at the hostel in Chiang Rai. She had booked the same hostel in Luang Prabang as me. It was a different boat but the same set up, more or less.

This time. when we stopped the second time, about 20 people piled on the boat with bags of stuff and a motorbike - which went on the roof.

We also stopped for around half an hour which coincided with a rain shower and it got very windy. we weren't sure what was happening at this point as the engine stopped for a bit. We wondered if they had engine trouble, but we were soon on our way again.

We reached Luang Prabang and its about a 30 minute drive into the town so the Tuk Tuks were waiting, but this time you had to pay - a flat fee per person, of 100,000 kip  - where ever you were going. This is about £3.30.

Laos people are poor but happy in general. The Buddhist religion helps. They have very little but, you don't need much to really be happy, I've learned. 

You can see its run down- rubbish everywhere - and it's one of the poorest countries on Earth.

Their currency is devalued due to high inflation ( 6.2% ) and huge national debt.

They import more than thet export. 

You can't exchange Kip into other currencies. You can pay in Baht or US dollars but you will pay slightly more and the dollar notes need to be pristine.

UK inflation is 3%  and we have very high national debt too......imagine pounds being worthless.....

Anyway, the Tuk Tuk took us around town & people had to get in the front with Google maps to show him directions to various hostels. 

We switched Tuk Tuks and he took me & Piper to Chanthavang hostel which is a bit out of town but OK. It was nice to have a hot shower after the dusty boat.

I found a place for dinner near the river and had a dish which was so spicy it actually hurt my mouth. It was tasty though. I just picked it at random.