Thursday, 8 January 2026

Geraldine

8th January 

I had spotted this place on the map & it just 'sounded' interesting and is on the way to where I was planning to camp for the last night, about 30 minutes outside Christchurch.

https://nzhistory.govt.nz/keyword/geraldine



I parked near the park where I had a coffee and then a wander round this very sweet little town. It was like going back in time to like - the 1950s or something - just the kind of shops there, 'Grandad's toy shop', 'The pin tin' and 'patchwork supplies '





The museum was $5 and I couldn't resist - I always learn something from a museum - this had a lot of old stuff & nic nacs from the past





and this until 1984! ....makes me feel old!



Maori History 

There was a video about the local Maori history which was really interesting. 

Obviously, they had come from Polynesia around the same time that the Vikings were invading Britain.

Their main source of food were the Moa, the large birds that they hunted for meat.


They made various tools from the rocks 




I didn't realise, but Maori are naturally tall and large. They are strong but their bones suffered in the lower temperatures of New Zealand, typically from rheumatism & pneumonia. 

They knew of, and used natural remedies from plants & roots.

The Harakeke or flax plant was important for weaving and making things. I have seen lots of these around, often with the Tui birds feeding off the seeds


Another important plant was the cabbage tree:

Ti kouka
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Ti kouka, the 'cabbage tree'.  Photo: 123RF

“The cabbage tree, which was probably the most reliable survival food for southern Māori. 

“They harvested the tap root, and the stems were rich in fructose and those sugars were released when cooked. 

“That was a huge source or a reliable source of sugar, really, and that was often mixed with a lot of different plants.”

They relied on catching eels & crayfish from the rivers, using materials ftom the trees & plants named above to make Eel pots to catch them.

To the Maori the wildlife around them was connected to the spiritual world and encompassed their ancestors. It was linked to them, and supplied by their spirits and so was to be respected.  They were partly nomadic, and would use the resources of an area, but then move to allow them to re-grow. 

Their supplies of Moa did dwindle, however, due to over hunting & when the Europeans arrived, they ruined much of the Maori's habitat - clearing and burning large areas for farm land.

In a short time 1000 years of successful life was destroyed. 

The first European settlers

There was a little hut telling the story of Samuel Hewlings the first Government surveyor for the area, who built the first dwelling there - the Bara Hut - which he lived in. He married a local Maori lady and had a daughter called Catherine. The tree they planted is still in the town, opposite the Police station, around 165 years old. 





And their native bats are endangered too - but protected



Like most Kiwi & Oz towns, most of the houses are single storey 




Leaving Geraldine I found my last free camp ground, Chamberlain Reserve. It's a good one. They even have proper toilets with sinks, water & soap!!




So I've done OK for free camping, with 10 out of 13 days free on the North Island & 10 out of 15 on the South Island. Where I've paid its been super cheap, apart from the two nights in Queenstown!


A couple pulled up next to me in their enormous camper, but they were sweet enough to ask if I minded - which I didn't.  The lady came out & had a chat.  They have their two cats with them. 

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